The weather in Guilin was miserable! It was raining all the time, I remember well the slobbery, sludgy dirt roads and the water puddles. My shoes and socks and pants were soaked with mud. I was wet and miserable all the time.
I took the bus to Yangshuo the next day. Yangshuo was not the smug tourist destination in 1988 that it is now, instead it was a backpackers‘ paradise, with inexpensive rooms, dorm rooms, cafés and restaurants catering for the backpacking tourists who traveled the galaxy for less than ten Altair dollars a day. In January, it was wet and miserable there, anyway…
Of course, I rented a bike to see the famous Moon Hill, with a crescent-shaped hole in its peak.
I am not sure whether it was on this trip to the Moon Hill, to be honest, as I went back two or three more times in the coming decades. Anyway: On top of the Moon hill was an old farmer lady, selling bags of mandarin oranges for the outrageous price of 6 kuai to tourists. I told her in Chinese that that was waaaay too expensive, but she told me that she was buying them on the market for 5 kuai, and she had to make some money as well. She was able to sell quite a lot of her produce, nevertheless.
I planned to stay until sunset to take some pictures, and soon the old lady and I were alone on the mountain. She liked the fact that for once she could communicate with a gao bizi, a foreigner, and so we chatted a bit. Then she offered me to sell me a bag of Juzi for one kuai, instead of six, which was ok. We chatted on for a bit, and when she left, she confesed to me that the Juzi grew on the tree in her garden, so she didn’t pay for them at all in the first place.
I was a bit nervous on how to get out of Guilin, and on to my next destination, as pre-ordering train tickets was not possible at that time, and I didn’t want to spend a couple of nights in an unheated „hard seater“ category train coach with live chicken and sacks of rice. So I returned to Guilin the next day.
My next destination: Kunming in Yunnan province, also known as „The City of Eternal Spring“.